The British Virgin Islands are British Overseas Territory located a little less than 100 miles east of San Juan, Puerto Rico. The British Virgin Islands (BVI) is a beautiful archipelago comprised of 60 islands and cays scattered about the turquoise water. The largest island in this chain is Tortola. It is also the tallest and most populated island of the BVI. Tortola has come a long way in it’s recovery from the monster hurricanes of 2017 and is once again attracting tourists from all over the globe.
Due to the closeness of the islands, the great number of beautiful beaches, calm coves, lively beach bars, great weather and the Sir Francis Drake Channel, (a long, normally calm body of water, sometimes called an inland sea, that runs between Tortola and the southern islands), the BVI has become a premier sailing destination and for many, Tortola is the major point of embarkation. Although many people visit Tortola just at the beginning or end of their sailing vacation, it is a great place to spend your entire vacation. Read on to find out why you should plan a trip to Tortola, BVI!
Beaches and Watersports.
The British Virgin Islands have some of the prettiest beaches anywhere in the Caribbean. Tortola included. Most are located on the north side of the island. Some of our favorites?
Cane Garden Bay – we first visited this pretty bay, mentioned in the Jimmy Buffet song, ” Mañana”, in 2006. It’s a long expanse of light colored sand fringed by calm, turquoise water. It has changed a lot since our first visit and has now become busy on days when cruise ships are docked in Road Town, but we still enjoy some of the beach bars, restaurants, live music and walking the beach. It’s a great bay for mooring, so there are usually catamarans and sailboats dotting the harbor and the sunsets here are simply out of this world. This beach is great for swimming, SUPing, canoeing, surfing and windsurfing.
Smuggler’s Cove – tucked away on the far west side of the island is a gorgeous arc of sand called Smuggler’s Cove. Prior to the hurricanes of 2017, Smuggler’s Cove was lined with beautiful palm trees which offered a lot of shade to those spending the day playing in the beautiful water. Unfortunately, most of the palms were destroyed in the strong storms, but now you can see more of the beautiful white sand beach! The snorkeling here is good in areas. Be sure to check out Nigel’s Boom Boom Beach Bar for cold drinks, a bite to eat and to chat with Nigel, the very friendly owner.
Long Bay – There are actually 2 beaches named Long Bay on Tortola. The Long Bay on the east side is found on Beef Island which attaches to Tortola via the Queen Elizabeth Bridge, so technically not Tortola, but attached to it. This beach is quiet with no amenities, but great for swimming and relaxing. Long Bay West is a mile long expanse of white sand on the far north and west side of Tortola. With a view of Jost Van Dyke and beautiful blue water, this is a great place to spend the day lounging in the sun. Be sure to check out Nature Boy Beach Bar tucked into to foliage on the far west side for a cold brew!
Like to surf? Apple Bay and Josiah’s Bay offer surfers some great waves, especially when there’s a north swell.
Rum.
As with all of the Virgin Islands, rum is popular and both rum and rum drinks can be found in most establishments on Tortola. Some of our favorite rum experiences on Tortola?
Callwood Rum Distillery. Within walking distance of Cane Garden Bay, Callwood Rum Distillery gives visitors a chance to step back in Tortola history as the Arundel Estate is estimated to have been around for approximately 400 years. The Callwood family took over the distillery in the late 18th century and has been producing rum for over 200 years in what is claimed to be the longest continuously operated pot distillery in the Caribbean. For a nominal amount, you can sample several of their rums and purchase some to take home, including the infamous “Panty Dropper”.
Sebastian’s Rum. Sebastian’s on the Beach is a small hotel/restaurant on the beach at Apple Bay. Enjoy a dinner overlooking the sea there and ask for a taste of Sebastian’s Rum. It’s not easy to find out much about this rum, except that it’s named after the notorious pirate Sebastian, is produced in Grand Bahama for Sebastian’s (hey, it says so on the internet, so it’s gotta be right, right?) and is only available on Tortola. Sweet and smooth, it makes a great topping for ice cream and is loved by many. Bring home a bottle or two.
Painkiller. The Painkiller reigns supreme in the BVI as the most popular rum drink. Enjoy them in one of three Pusser’s locations on Tortola (Cane Garden Bay, Soper’s Hole and Road Town) or at most other bar on the island! Find a recipe here: Painkiller.
What and Where to Eat.
The first things we search for to eat when we get to Tortola? A good Roti (with Mango Chutney) and fresh Caribbean lobster (in season).
A Roti is an East Indian dish thought to have been brought to the Caribbean in the 1800’s. It is a thin wrap (similar to a tortilla) filled with curry spices, potatoes and a meat such as chicken, goat, beef, conch or shrimp. It’s fairly easy to find on Tortola, but the last one we bought was at Trellis Bay Market (on Beef Island) during a Full Moon Party. Delicious! Check out a Roti recipe here.
Caribbean lobster is another dish we seek out during visits to the BVI. Not a close relative of the Maine lobster (see more info here), it is nonetheless delicious and usually so fresh that it has been plucked out of the sea that day, barbecued and served in the half shell. Our last experience with Caribbean lobster on Tortola was at Bananakeet Cafe’ while enjoying an amazing view and a sunset. Wherever you go, if you’ve got your heart set on having lobster, just call ahead to make sure it’s on the menu that night.
Other local foods to try? Pates (patties) – made up of spiced meats or vegetables wrapped in a flatbread and then deep fried. Soursop – a spiky fruit that is said to taste like a cross between a pineapple and a banana, it grows abundantly on Tortola. Callaloo – a local stew. with ingredients like taro or dasheen leaves, okra, meat or fish, onions and spices. Johnny Cakes – a baked or fried dough snack that is often made with cornmeal.
Other Things to Do and See on Tortola.
Get up high. Tortola has the highest point of the British Virgin Islands and because of that, some spectacular views. Where to see the view?
Sage Mountain National Park. The highest point on Tortola (and all of the BVI) is found at Sage Mountain National Park at 1,716 feet. There are several trails to take, some offering views of many of the surrounding islands.
Stoutt’s Lookout Bar. Perched high on a hill overlooking Cane Garden Bay is a small establishment called Stoutt’s Lookout. The view is phenomenal, the breeze is refreshing and the food and drink are served up with a smile and friendly conversation.
Rent a Home or Villa with a View. Tortola is quite hilly and many homes are built on a hillside. If you are looking for accommodations and you’d like a view, you are likely to find something that fits most budgets. We’ve stayed at the Limin’ House overlooking Soper’s Hole and loved the stunning home and the amazing view!
Get on – and in! – the water.
As mentioned previously, the calm waters around the BVI make for prime sailing conditions. Get on the water with one of the local excursion companies and enjoy skimming across the water on your way to one of the excellent snorkeling or dive spots nearby.
Island Hop. Tortola offers ferry service to several surrounding islands such as Jost Van Dyke, Virgin Gorda and Anegada so you can enjoy the sights and get a taste of another British Virgin Island for the day!
Catch a Sunset. Cane Garden Bay has some of the prettiest tropical sunsets that we’ve ever seen, but there are spectacular sunsets to be found from Brewers Bay to Smuggler’s Cove and most any vantage point up high.
Getting Around.
Not gonna lie. Driving on Tortola can be…challenging. Driving is on the left and there are some narrow streets, steep hills and driving through Roadtown with the roundabouts when there is a lot of traffic – whew! That being said, the best way to see the island is to rent a car and take your time, stopping at shops, beaches and overlooks. There are car rental agencies in several spots on the island. Ask the management of your villa, hotel or resort for the name of a reputable company to rent from. Not comfortable driving? Hire a taxi or shuttle to take you around and show you the best spots!
What You Should Bring Home from Tortola.
The shops around the cruise ship terminal carry an assortment of tees and name-dropped goods, but if you want to bring home something authentically Tortolan, bring home some Callwood Rum and some Sebastians Rum – only available for purchase on Tortola! Aragorn’s Studio in Trellis Bay also has locally made carvings, spices, jewelry and more.
Other posts you might be interested in:
Why You Should Plan a Trip to St. Thomas, USVI
Why You Should Plan a Trip to Barbados
Why You Should Plan a Trip to Kauai
Why You Should Plan a Trip to St. Croix
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